The community TV channel has offered the opportunity for Frederique
and Olivier to present their restaurant. Olivier participates
frequently to cooking series where he reveals some of his secrets.
Olivier was chosen to appear in cooking shows:
25th March 2005, on the Flash show on TQS.
26th March 2008, on the show L'Épicerie with Johane Despins
on Radio Canada.
Available permanently since May 2008 in Radio-Canada's
archives, you can listen to the radio show La Semaine Verte:
"Le
canard à la rouennaise : une tradition culinaire importée
de Rouen en France par un restaurateur des Laurentides".
In 2008, Olivier also contributed to the book "Menus
de fêtes... pour toutes occasions" from the collection
"saveurs gourmandes" available under the publisher Les
Éditions Broquet, ISBN 9782896540143.
A laurentian twist on a french delicacy
Saint-Jovite-Crouching on a pair
of lion's legs on the flambé table of Restaurant Le Cheval de Jade
is a half-metre-high silver contraption topped with a giant screw and
wheel. "This, " says chef Olivier Tali, "is the pièce
de résistance." The objet of his pride, which resembles some
medieval torture device, is a rare French duckling press. Amid the lace
and linen of this dining room in the Laurentian Mountains just north of
Montreal, Tali has just sliced the breasts off a roast duck and chopped
the carcass in three. He deposits the pieces in a stout silver cup and
slips it into the press.
Clad in the traditional white chef's toque and jacket, Tali is preparing
caneton à la rouennaise. The press was specially devised
to extract the three-century-old delcacy' secret ingredient : blood. The
story goes that in olden days, some of the live ducks packed onto boats
and transported down the local river for slaughter would suffocate en
route. Unwilling to waste good fowl, a parsimonious chef cooked them anyway
and found that they tasted superior to those beheaded, since the asphyiated
ducks retained their blood. A legendary meal was born.
And soon after, so was the duck press.Crafted mostly by Parisian jewellers,
the ornate devices don't come cheap : Tali's, bought in southern France
for $8,000 in 2005, dates to early 1900s, and a new one now goes for about
$28,000. "The lion's feet show it was made for a chef in Normandy,"he
explains; the dish is named for the regions's historical capital, where
it's a specialty. Presses wih duck feet were crafted for restaurants in
Brittany, and Tali has seen elephant legs on those bound for India. There
are only about 100 duckling presses in existence, and Le Cheval is the
only restaurant in Canada with caneton à la rouennaise on the menu.
Tali invites me to turn the wheel. With both hands, I cinch down until
forty kilograms of pressure has forced a pink trickle of blood and fat
from the carcass into a waiting gravy boat. "Voilà!"
The enthusiatic Tali is a member of L'Ordre des Canardiers, an organization
with its own anthem and coat of arms, founded in 1986 to protect and promote
the dish. L'Ordre takes its work seriously : any variation from the original
recipe requires approval. And they aren't the only ones with a fetish
for caneton. For more than a century, the fabled Paris restaurant La Tour
d'Argent has numbered its birds and presented certificates to diners.
According to the restaurant's visitor's book, duckling 328 was served
to the future Edward VII in 1890, 53,211 to Hirohito in 1921, and 938,451
to Milhail Gorbachev. It has now passed the 1.2 million mark.
In his cozy house-restaurant on Saint-Jovite's main street, Tali serves
his unique Laurentian duckling to anyone who orders at least a day in
advance. In Canada, as in US and northern Europe, dispatching livestock
by strangulation is illegal, so to better retain the locally raised and
decapitated duck's juices it is preroasted only lightly. Once the press
has done its job, Tali flambés cognac in a saucepan, then adds
bordelaise sauce, a shot of port, and lemon juice. With the permission
of L'Ordre des Canardiers, the French-born chef has altered the next step:
instead of a full scoop of butter, he stirs in half butter, half foie
gras. Finally, the duck juice is dribbled in to thicken the mixture.
Before my eyes, Tali sautés the severed breasts to medium rare,
slices them thinly, and serves them up blanketed in the velvet sauce.
As a finale, he presents me with a certificate to prove I've had teh authentic
rouennaise duckling experience. The verdict ? An extraordinary meal. Duck
321 did not die in vain.
The Walrus- Margo Pfeiff- december 2007
Patrons are"lucky" ones at new Quebec restaurant
Le Cheval de Jade cut above the rest
- Owners praised for their service
Saint Jovite, Quebec. - When a chef is so selective about
the fish he uses in his Marseilles-style bouillabaisse that he has it
flown in from France, you know that you are in for a special treat. Such
is the case of Le cheval de Jade, a little restaurant tucked in at the
end of the main street of Mont-Tremblant's gateway town of Saint-Jovite-
the realization of a dream for husband and wife team Olivier Tali and
Frederique Pironneau.
"The fish from the Mediterranean is the best, so there is no other
way," said Tali.
Named Le Cheval to symbolize the wild horses of their native France and
de Jade after the dark coloured stone found in the Laurentian Moutains
of their new homeland, the quaint restaurant serves up some of the best
fish dishes served anywhere.
"The name brings together the freedom to prepare food the way we
feel it should be prepared and jade is said to bring luck" said Frederique.
Line and Pete, my old school friends were visiting from North Wales, U.K.
and had joined my husband John and I at Mont-Tremblant during our visit
there earlier this fall, so we wanted to make dinner on our last night
an extra special occasion.
We chose Le Cheval de Jade and it turned out to be a lucky choice.
A good restaurant, a really good restaurant that isn't booked up months
in advance is a rare find.
When that restaurant is in a town close to a major tourist destination
drawing tens of thousands of a visitors a year, it seems nothing short
of a miracle that they can almost always fit you in if you call a few
hours ahead. Such is the case at Le Cheval de Jade.
But it' s a situation that surely won't last as word continues to spread
about the exceptional food and hospitality served up by the husband and
wife team.
After a day on the Mont-Tremblant hills-hiking in our case-the dark green
walls, lace curtains, crisp white tablecloths and the well-groomed waiters
were a welcome change.
Pironneau oversees the impeccable service in the 34-seat dinning room,
while Tali, 38, who at 16 began his training under the great chefs of
Montpellier in the Herault region of southern France, creates some of
the best fish dishes served anywhere.
Pironneau, who is from the Loire region of France, has perfected her English
working with the wine waiters in many of the dining rooms of the Mont-tremblant
area.
She translates for her husband whose focus on arriving in Canada was sharpening
his culinary management skills by working as a second chef in various
regional restaurants.
In the summer of 1999, they took the plunge and spent their life savings
and bought a converted house at 688 rue de Saint-Jovite on the far end
of town. Slowly and surely, they have built up a reputation for excellence
and also have netted numerous awards for the quality of service.
We decided to push the boat out and try the Gastronomic Menu, a seven-course
extravaganza, which when all was said and done was excellent value for
$155 for two.
The meal began with seared foie gras in a pear and port wine sauce, followed
by smoked salmon with avocado ice cream. The highlight of the meal was
watching Tali flambé the tiger prawns before adding a dash of his
precious fish stock made from the fish flown in the day before from the
Mediterranean, he explained.
A duck breast served in a raspberry and green pepper sauce was followed
by a venison course , the meal rounded off with a selection of Quebec
cheeses and a dessert platter to die for. Main courses on the à
la carte menu range from $26 for a salmon filet with a fennel anise sauce
to $32 for red tuna in sea-weed, rice vinegar and sesame seed sauce.
There is, of course, a good wine list and Pironneau will make suggestions
for wines to complement each course.
There are plenty of great restaurants at the Intrawest Village at Mont-Tremblant
ski resort, but for a change of scenery, Saint-Jovite and its quaint restaurants
is only a 15-minute drive away by car. There is an excellent transit system
in the area that costs about $1 for one-way rides.
Roberta Avery - Toronto Star, saturday, november 13, 2004
The French restaurant, Le Cheval de Jade (The Jade Horse), is in a charmingly renovated farmhouse in the neighboring town of St.Jovite, about a 15-minute drive from Le Grand Lodge. Originally built in 1925, the house's burnished wood floors and walls give it a warm, inviting atmosphere. Paintings by local artists adorn the walls. Double hung windows with lace curtains, and soft jazz playing in the background round out the atmosphere. The restaurant is the pride and joy of two young chefs, Frederique Pironneau and her husband,Olivier Tali, who moved to Quebec from a small town in France and opened Le Cheval de Jade in 1999. Winners of Quebec's top restaurant prize, the Table d'Or or " Gold Table" award in 2003, Frederique and Olivier specialize in seafood, foie gras, and dishes made from locally grown meats and vegetables. Their free-range chicken and organic vegetables come from a nearby farm.
by Kay halpern and Len Rickman, 2003
There are a variety of restaurants situated in the alpine village, but just a short drive or bus ride away (the tremblant area now offers an excellent transit system that costs just 1$ for one-way rides) you get some unbelievable meals at quaint restaurants like Le Cheval de Jade at 688 Rue de Saint-Jovite (the town of Saint-Jovite was recently incorporated into Mont-Tremblant). Le charming Frédérique Pironneau and her husband Olivier Tali are your hosts at Le Cheval de Jade and their fish creations are some of the best you'll ever taste.
Mark Atchison, Toronto Star, january 25th, 2003
Sun from the South of France on Your plate!
It is in Montpellier, a lovely city in the Hérault region, South
of France, that young Olivier Tali saw the sun for the first time! He
discovered the taste of things in his grandparents garden, biting
into sun-drenched tomatoes, smelling basil, wild thyme and lavender. He
was 16 years old when he decided to learn to be a cook alongside the great
chefs in his region. His passion revealed, he studied in the Ecole
hôtelière de Gignac for one year. He got his CAP (professional
certificate) in 1988. He improved his skills during a period of apprenticeship
with professionals. The mediterranean Sea being only two steps away, he
naturally learned to cook fish. To continue learning, he left for Québec
in 1995 and settled here in Mont-Tremblant. For three years, he was second
chef at Aux Truffes restaurant and then became second chef
at La Forge restaurant. He finally met his companion, Frédérique,
and together they opened Le Cheval de Jade on June 26, 1999.
Oliviers clients are his priority. He wants to give them the best,
superior quality. He visits every table himself to speak directly to his
clients, inquiring about any possible allergies. He chooses to favour
organic local produce and so he encourages the development of such producers
in the Laurentians. One exception is the fish that he needs to prepare
his speciality, bouillabaisse. It comes from France, delivered
by airplane. Olivier keeps an eye on everything - from fish broths to
desserts. Everything is prepared at the restaurant and he changes menus
each season.
By conviction, he is a member of the Société des chefs
cuisiniers et pâtissiers du Québec and the Corporation
de la cuisine régionale.
An address where one can consume without reserve!
PARTICULARITIES :
Paradoxically, this son of the sun who loves the water also adores dog
sled rides in winter. He even owns a husky. In spring and fall, whenever
he has a chance, he goes out to pick mushrooms. He is also quite capable
with woods and irons on the greens of the region!
Tremblant development brings new life to Laurentian
town
Saint-Jovite - With the development of Mont-Tremblant into a four-season
resort that attracts tens of thousands of visitors a year from all over
the world, the gateway town of Saint-Jovite is experiencing a revival
as well.
Saint-Jovite is a small enough town to wonder around on foot, and there
are a number of notable sites, historic and otherwise.
There are a few exciting new restaurants that will dramatically improve
the food scene in town. One is the Cheval de Jade at 688 Ouimet St., an
haute-cuisine dining room specializing in fish and flambéed dishes;
it is perhaps the fanciest restaurant in the northern Laurentians. It's
owned by a determined, talented young couple, Frederique Pironneau and
Olivier Tali, who both come from France and have worked at fine establishment.
Indoors, le Cheval de Jade is rather formal and refined. Dark-green walls
are a backdrop for white-lace curtains, white tablecloths and china, as
well as the lanscapes of Local artist Serge Dubreuil. Outdoors, a cheery
yellow-and-white canopy shields a sizable terrace and dinner is served
outside on fine evenings.
Le Cheval de Jade takes its bouillabaise very seriously, and the menu
begins with a long poem that doubles as a recipe ($26, or $33 with a half-lobster).
The menu includes appetizers like fish soup ($7) and a fisherman's salad
($6), and main courses like shrimp sautéed in whisky butter ($25),
scallops stuffed with a Florentine mousse ($26), and classic non-fish
French dishes like rack of lamb and duck breast. Desserts ($5 to $7) include
crème brulée, tarte tatin with maple syrup and an unusual
strawberry soup with mint-tea granité. Phone (819) 425-5233.
Rochelle Lash, THE GAZETTE, MONTREAL, THRUSDAY, AUGUST 26, 1999







